The revival of the signet ring in the 2020s has been part of a particularly fascinating trend towards beautiful bespoke jewellery pieces.
The signet ring revival, alongside the upcycling of heirloom jewellery and a greater tendency towards resizing rings ready to be used again, meant that there is a lot of interest in not only the pieces themselves but also how they can and should be worn.
There are few types of jewellery with quite as exhaustive or comprehensive a history or set of rules as signet rings, and the rules for crest design, where you can wear them and what you can wear them with are nigh-infinite sources for debate.
However, to try and provide some insight, here are some of the most common questions we are asked about signet ring etiquette, what the traditional rules are and how you may be able to bend them to create a modern yet respectful style of your own.
What Finger Do You Wear A Signet Ring On?
The biggest question we are asked when it comes to signet rings is which finger you are meant to wear it on, and whilst there are some discussions about where you can wear it today, there is only one traditional answer.
Signet rings are typically worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand, which in 90 per cent of cases means the left hand.
The reason for this was to ensure that the particularly important ring was easily accessible, but would not get in the way of other vital functions of the hand.
However, even in the distant past, this was not necessarily a rigidly defined rule; there are many portraits which show a signet ring on any finger upon which it will fit.
Do You Show Off A Signet Ring Design?
Should you wear the crest of your signet ring with the intricate design facing inside or outside?
The answer is generally a matter of personal preference, and some signet rings are specifically designed to have an alternate design on the side that would be facing outward.
In general, the answer varies because of the utility of the signet ring itself. Whilst signet rings were beautiful and collectors existed in Ancient Greece, they were primarily used to convey authority and authenticity.
Signet rings were used to stamp documents and produce wax seals, with the complex etchings being used to create an ornate design that was extremely difficult to counterfeit without significant amounts of time and effort.
In some cases, a signet ring with the heraldry of a particular ruler was given to messengers to use as identification and to grant them safe passage through various regions.
This means that the choice to showcase it depends less on aesthetic etiquette and more on whether it is safe to do so.
In eras with much more sophisticated forms of identification, the choice is far more personal. Having the seal face outward conveys a sense of pride and power, whilst turning it inward is a much more personal gesture of admiration for one’s roots.
Can You Wear It With Other Rings?
In general, you can wear a signet ring with other rings, but caution must always be exercised if you opt to wear more than a signet ring and a wedding band.
Part of the reason why the little finger was chosen as the main finger for wearing signet rings was to avoid wearing the signet ring on the same finger as a wedding ring would traditionally be placed.
However, there are always exceptions to each rule. Princess Diana, for example, famously wore her family’s signet ring alongside a Cartier ring, both on the little finger of her left hand.
It absolutely can work, but care must be taken not to overload your fingers or make yourself feel uncomfortable.
How Do You Respect The Heritage Of A Signet Ring?
Almost all signet rings carry with them the weight of symbolism and meaning in a way that not all other types of jewellery have to.
Because of this, it is important to respect the ring when it is used. Besides keeping it clean and resizing it if it does not fit your chosen finger, wear gold signet rings primarily during formal events and learn the story of your crest and seal.
What Are The Most Common Rules Of Etiquette For Signet Rings?
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Signet rings are worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand.
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The design is traditionally worn facing outwards, but that is not necessarily universal.
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Wearing more than one signet ring of any size per hand is not recommended.
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Wear it when the material matches the occasion.
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Respect its heritage, even with bespoke designs.